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Trail
Driving Technique
Slippery conditions can turn a normally easy trail into
one that is nearly impassable. Snow is an obvious cause,
but on certain soil types a rain storm can turn the
surface of the soil into something resembling wheel
bearing grease.
Driving techniques and
tire requirements are similar for either snow or
slippery trail mud. Wet trails are more easily damaged
than dry trails, so Tread Lightly when it's slippery
out.
TIRES,
VOIDS, AND LUGS
I'll start with the most important factor in negotiating
slippery trails: Tires. The void ratio is the key. Void
ratio is the ratio of the space between the lugs to the
space used by the lugs. The higher the void ratio the
better, for the most part. A higher void ratio helps the
tires clean mud and snow from between the lugs easier.
Super Swamper Boggers
would seem to be a good tire for a slippery trail
because of their high void ratio, but they have only
horizontal lugs on them. While these tires are good for
straight ahead mud runs, the lack of vertical lugs means
that a Bogger tired vehicle may be more prone to sliding
sideways in a slippery off camber situation.
The tires with the next highest void ratio commonly seen
on the trail are Buckshot Mudders in radial or bias ply
and Super Swamper TSL's in radial or bias ply. All of
these tires have a vertical row of center lugs that goes
a long way to prevent unwanted sideways movement of the
vehicle. Swamper radials and Buckshot radials have the
advantage of increased flexing and deformation when
aired down due to their radial construction. The flex
helps the tires "stick" better by providing a larger
contact patch and the flexing action helps them clean
the mud out of the tread.
There are other types of mud tires
available with BFG MTs and Mud Kings being the most
common on the trail. These are good tires and work well
in many conditions, and offer a much more comfortable
ride on the street, but when the mud gets really thick
and sticky these will clog before the Swampers or
Buckshots due to the closer spacing of the tire lugs.
The best
place to see how different tires perform is always going
to be under real-world conditions on a trail ride. I
recommend going on a few trail rides and watching to see
what works best in your area before buying. My personal
picks for slippery trail ride conditions where I live
(Minnesota) are the Super Swamper radials or Buckshot
radial. Don't forget to air down. The extra flexing
action helps any tread pattern clear out the mud.
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DRIVING TECHNIQUES:
Slippery hill climbs require momentum. When there is a
patch of slick mud or smooth ice half way up the hill
you must have enough speed to carry the vehicle over it
and to the next area with some traction. You simply
can't idle up a steep hill coated with mud or snow
that's so slippery you can't walk on it.
If you get part way up
a hill and forward movement stops you may find yourself
going sideways or even sliding back down the hill with
the tires still trying to go forward. Don't lock up your
tires in this situation. Locking up the tires will cause
you to lose all steering control. Always try to go into
reverse and idle down. You may come down faster than you
would like but you will be able to steer. If things are
happening too fast to go into reverse go into neutral or
press in the clutch and try pumping the brakes as you
back down (never, ever, ever stomp on the brakes hard
enough to lock up the wheels when in a slide, it is a
sure recipe for disaster).
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Don't
have the steering wheel turned too far when pumping the
brakes because you may find traction and cause the
vehicle to turn suddenly. If you have slid sideways
across a hillside but are still pointing upwards try
pointing your tires back to the center of the trail and
giving it some throttle. Lots of times the vehicle will
move straight sideways across the face of the hill and
get you to a safer place to back down. This will
probably not work on an steep off camber hill.
(editors
note: Use caution when on any steep or off-camber hill,
getting even a little bit sideways can put you in danger
of rolling the vehicle, always try to keep the jeep
pointed straight up and down the hill whenever possible)
If you find
yourself sideways on a hill, or starting to go sideways
point your tires up hill and give it some throttle. This
will often straighten you out. If you manage to get
yourself completely sideways, perpendicular to the hill
and feel as though you are about to roll, point your
tires downhill and give it some gas and head down the
hill.
The old off-roaders
trick of turning the steering wheel back and forth when
forward progress has stopped will often work when moving
through slick mud or climbing a slippery hill, but
sometimes you just end up going sideways across the
hill. Be cautious of its volatile nature when trying
this technique.
You may at times
find yourself in the awkward position of having slid
backwards down a hill until a tree stops you. You
probably can't drive up or you wouldn't have slid down.
A winch pull is always the best answer. If you have no
winch you may be able to spin the tires while someone
pushes the front of your Jeep sideways, allowing you to
make an extremely sharp turn and head back down the
hill. Make sure that the slope of the hill will help
push the nose of the vehicle in the direction you want,
don't let someone get pinned between your Jeep and a
tree. If you attempt this move, make sure that you are
not going to be in danger of rolling the jeep, and get
the nose of the jeep headed straight down ASAP, using
power as needed so you can control your descent.
Up or down, your
best control is when both axles are perpendicular to the
hill. A good rule of thumb is to send a winch equipped
vehicle up first. Otherwise a stuck vehicle may block
the trail completely.
Slippery, off
camber descents present a different challenge. The most
common problem is the back of the Jeep sliding off to
the side. Locker equipped vehicles are especially prone
to this. Always keep the Jeep in first gear low range
when descending slippery hills. If the rear starts to
slide out give it a little throttle and it will usually
straighten out. If necessary, and if there is enough
room, steer the front in the direction the rear is
sliding. This will keep the front directly below the
rear and keep you in control.
Wet rocks can be
tricky, especially if there is some mud thrown into the
spaces between the rocks. I like it when there is a nice
12" diameter laying log at a 45 degree angle to the
trail to hop over in the middle of the rocks, just to
add a little more challenge. For this situation be aware
that you will slide off one or more of the rocks and
pick your line accordingly. Use the rocks to your
advantage if possible. For example put the sidewall of a
tire against the side of a rock to hold you and keep you
from sliding sideways. Don't cross fallen trees at an
angle. When you get to that downed tree in the middle of
the rocks, if possible, have your jeep pointed in such a
way as to bring both front tires over it at the same
time. Bump it a little (more gas), rather than risk
getting only one tire up and being hung up on a spring
or the differential. If you get one front tire up and
the other is on the ground, back down, get your axle
parallel to the tree, and try again.
Rutted trails
can be a problem for vehicles with small tires, but ruts
can be a help in slippery off camber situations. If your
tires are big enough to run in the ruts you will
probably not slide sideways off the hill. If you have
smaller tires try running with just one set of tires in
a rut if the trail is wide enough. The uphill rut is
usually a better choice. If you straddle a rut in a
slippery situation it is just a matter of time until you
slide in. If you are lucky your left tire slid into the
right rut or vice versa. If you are unlucky you are
probably squarely stuck in a rut made by someone with
much bigger tires and in need of a tow strap or highlift
jack.
Sometimes you
will find a trail that has 2 tracks that have been used
by the trucks ahead of you. These often become icy or
slippery on a hill climb or descent. Try going to the
side a bit to get some fresh snow or untrod dirt under
your tires.
Deep
mud and snow:
Generally deep mud holes have ruts in the bottom and
different parts of the bottom may be shallower and
deeper, firmer and softer. Poking around the bottom with
a stick may help you find shallow spots, but the best
technique is to observe the vehicle in front of you.
In a wet mud hole the
Jeep in front of you makes waves. Look at the bottom of
the wave to see if you can find a shallower part to
drive through. Sometimes a wave rolling across a mud
hole will expose a shallow shelf you can get your wheels
on. If the guy in front of you gets stuck and you have a
similar or lesser equipped Jeep, don't follow his
example. In a dryer, stickier mud hole it is difficult
to judge how deep it is without driving out into it. The
best bet is to go slowly and stop spinning your tires if
you can no longer make forward progress. Put the Jeep in
reverse and saw the steering wheel back and forth. Many
times the side of the tire will bite and push you back
out. Stay in your ruts as you back out. This techniques
often works well for wet sticky snow too.
The fine art of hooking
up a tow strap while stuck in the mud is often learned
out of necessity. Anyone can simply hop out into the 30"
deep mud (you can tell how deep by how much of your tire
is showing), but a clever person can get to the front of
their Jeep without getting excessively muddy. With soft
doors simply lift the door off the Jeep, place it in the
back and step out onto the front tire while clinging to
the windshield. From there flop onto the hood and crawl
to the front of the Jeep. Assume a sitting position on
the hood with your feet on the bumper and try to either
throw one end of your strap to someone standing at the
edge of the mud or try to catch the end of theirs. If
you happen to be on shore it may be fun to throw short
the first time so the catcher has to grab the muddy end
of the strap as it comes flying at them. Use common
sense and don't throw a strap with a shackle or metal
tow hook attached to it (better yet, Never even bring a
strap with an attached tow hook to a trail ride - they
are extremely dangerous).
The idea here
has been to give you a few ideas to help you make it
through with the minimum impact to the trail, your
vehicle and yourself.
These
are general guidelines that often work, not hard and
fast rules.
Every vehicle and
situation is different.
Use common sense, and
don't compromise safety.
When in doubt
winch it out.
Tread lightly!
Do your part to keep 4 wheeling trails open by 4
wheeling responsibly. |